Vietnamese Tuna Seviche

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3 tablespoons Asian fish sauce (nuoc nam)

2 1/2 tablespoons sugar, plus more for sprinkling

1 1/2 tablespoons water

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon fresh lime juice

1 small garlic clove, minced

1/2 teaspoon minced fresh ginger

1 serrano or Thai chile, thinly sliced, with seeds

1 cup yellow cherry tomatoes, halved

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 tablespoon rice vinegar

1/2 pound cold sushi-grade tuna, cut into 1/2-inch cubes

1/2 pound yellow seedless watermelon, cut into 1/2-inch cubes

2 tablespoons tobiko (flying-fish roe)

2 tablespoons torn purple or green basil leaves

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