Korean Chicken Soup

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One 3-pound chicken, neck reserved

3 1/2 quarts water

1 medium unpeeled onion, quartered

2 carrots, scrubbed and cut into 2-inch pieces

2 celery ribs, cut into 2-inch pieces

1 large unpeeled garlic clove, smashed

1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

1 large fresh bay leaf

6 parsley sprigs

2 thyme sprigs

Kosher salt

8 ounces thick udon noodles

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1/2 pound shiitake mushrooms, thinly sliced

1/4 cup finely julienned peeled ginger

One 12-ounce block firm silken tofu, cut into 1/2-inch cubes

1 cup kimchi, thinly sliced

2 tablespoons Asian fish sauce

1 teaspoon Asian sesame oil

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