Arctic Char Gravlax With White Grapefruit

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1 2-pound side of arctic char, skin on, pinbones removed

3 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons finely grated white or pink grapefruit zest

3 tablespoons kosher salt plus more

2 tablespoons muscovado sugar or light brown sugar

1 tablespoon granulated sugar

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon dried whole green peppercorns, crushed

1 tablespoon juniper berries, well crushed

1/2 cup crème fraîche

3 teaspoons minced fresh dill, divided

Crackers or toasts (preferably rye)

Ingredient info: Juniper berries are sold in the spice section of better supermarkets.

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