Tuna Watermelon Ceviche

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8 ounces kumquats, cut into thin rounds and seeded

2 quarts water

4 cups sugar

5 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice

3 tablespoons sambal oelek (hot chili paste)

2 tablespoons store-bought or homemade lemon oil

1 1/2 tablespoons yuzu juice

2 teaspoons salt

1 pound center-cut ahi tuna fillet (pinbones removed), cut into 1/4-inch dice

9 ounces cubed (1/4-inch) seedless watermelon

4 to 6 leaves basil, rolled and cut crosswise into ribbons (chiffonade; 1 tablespoon)

3 or 4 chives, snipped (1 tablespoon), plus 1 for garnish

Leaves of a few sprigs cilantro, finely chopped (1 tablespoon)

Leaves of a few stems tarragon, finely chopped (1 tablespoon)

1 tablespoon finely chopped red onion

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