Sautéed Chickpeas With Ham And Kale

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2 tablespoons annatto seeds (achiote)

6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 small onion, cut into 1-inch dice

2 plum tomatoes, cut into 1-inch dice

One 4-ounce piece of smoked, cured ham, sliced 1/2 inch think and cut into 1/2-inch dice

Salt and freshly ground pepper

4 garlic cloves, minced

One 19-ounce can chickpeas, drained

2 tablespoons pure ancho chile powder

1 teaspoon dried oregano

1/2 cup water

1/2 pound kale, stems discarded and leaves coarsely chopped

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

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