Pizzoccheri With Duck Ragu

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1 1/3 cups dried porcini mushrooms

4 ounces pancetta, cut into chunks

1 medium onion, cut into chunks

1 carrot, cut into chunks

1 stalk celery, cut into chunks

1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves

8 fresh sage leaves

6 duck legs (about 3 pounds), excess skin and fat trimmed (reserve fat for another use)

Kosher salt

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

3 tablespoons tomato paste

2 bay leaves

1 cup dry red wine

1 3/4 pounds fresh pizzoccheri (buckwheat noodles)

3 to 4 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

1/2 cup grated parmesan

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