Indian-Style Zucchini And Red Lentils

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1 or 2 tablespoons olive oil

1 medium (4 to 5 ounces) sweet onion, such as Vidalia, Walla Walla or any local variety labeled "sweet," finely chopped (1 cup)

3/4 pound thin zucchini, cut into 1/2- to 3/4-inch dice (about 2 1/4 cups)

1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon salt, plus a pinch for the lentils' cooking water

1/2 cup dried red lentils, picked over to remove any foreign matter


1 to 2 teaspoons garam masala (see headnote)

Leaves from 2 to 3 stems cilantro, chopped (2 tablespoons)

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