Polenta With Smoky Mushroom Ragout

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6 cups water

1 1/2 cups dry polenta

1 tablespoon butter, cut into small pieces

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 cups chopped onion

8 cups sliced oyster mushroom caps (about 1 1/2 pounds)

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup Côtes du Rhône or other fruity red wine

1 tablespoon chopped drained canned chipotle chiles in adobo sauce

1 teaspoon dried oregano

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 (28-ounce) can whole tomatoes, drained and chopped

2 cups (8 ounces) crumbled queso fresco cheese

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

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