Umami Burgers With Port And Stilton

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1 cup ruby port

2 pounds mixed ground beef brisket, skirt steak and sirloin steak (20 percent fat)

Salt and freshly ground pepper

1/2 cup Stilton cheese (3 ounces), softened

Umami dust, for sprinkling (optional, see Note)

4 brioche hamburger buns, buttered and toasted

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