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Although it's possible to buy Italian savoiardi in many grocery and specialty stores, it's always fun to know you can make them yourself. So when you have time to make this part of tiramisu and/or you're ready to try something new, here's a version, after

Preheat your oven to 400°F. Separate the eggs, putting the whites in one medium- to large-sized mixing bowl, and the yolks in another. Make sure you don't get any yolk in the whites, as that will prevent them from beating up nicely. It's OK to get a bit o

Beat the whites until they're frothy and, using a sieve to break up lumps, sprinkle in the cream of tartar. Beat until soft peaks form when you lift out the beater. Then slowly add 1/4 cup of the sugar, and beat until stiff peaks form when you raise the b

Beat the yolks until they're beginning to lighten up. Then slowly dribble in the remaining half-cup of sugar and continuebeating,about 5 minutes, until they're very light and form a ribbon when you lift the beaters out. Add the warm water (another Rose B.

In a small bowl, mix together the pastry flour, potato flour and salt. Sift this mixture over the egg yolks, add about a third of the whites, and mix gently, until the flour is incorporated; a whisk does this nicely. Whisk in the remaining whites.

Place parchment paper on a couple of baking sheets. If you have a pastry bag with a half-inch tip, it's perfect for forming the ladyfingers. If you don't, take a zipper-lock or other heavy-duty plastic bag, and cut off one bottom corner so you have the eq

Bake these small fingers for about 8 minutes. They won't have the height of commercial ones, but don't be concerned about that. You made them and they taste good; that's what's most important. Remove the ladyfingers from the oven when they've become golde

This filling is sufficient for one single-layer pan of tiramisu; it's easily doubled to make a double layer, or two pans.

Make the coffee and let it come to room temperature while you're preparing the rest of the filling. (Hot coffee will dissolve the savoiardi and you'll have a mess on your hands.) Add the tablespoon of rum.

Separate the eggs, putting the whites in one medium- to large-sized mixing bowl, and the yolks in another. If you make sure you clean and dry your beaters thoroughly, it doesn't make any difference which you beat first, yolks or whites. As I mentioned bef

Beat the yolks until they're light. Slowly add half the sugar and keep beating for almost 5 minutes until, when you lift the beater out, the yolks ooze like a ribbon. Beat in the mascarpone and the remaining tablespoon of rum. Set the mixture aside, and c

Beat the whites until they're foamy, drizzle in the remaining sugar, and beat until the whites are stiff. Fold them into the yolk mixture.

Take 14 or 15 savoiardi or ladyfingers, dip them in the coffee/rum mixture, and layer them into the bottom of a 9 x 13-inch (or 2-quart) baking dish, preferably glass. You want them well-flavored but not totally saturated. If you're making one layer, scoo

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