Sardinian-Style Paella

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Large pinch of saffron threads

6 1/2 cups warm water

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 medium onion, finely chopped

3 large garlic cloves, thinly sliced

1 pound fregola (2 1/4 cups)

1/2 pound chorizo, thinly sliced

1 cup canned diced tomatoes, drained

1 cup dry white wine

Salt and freshly ground pepper

2 pounds large shrimp, shelled and deveined

2 pounds red snapper, cod or monkfish, cut into 2-inch pieces

1 pound mussels, scrubbed and debearded

1 pound cockles, scrubbed

2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley

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