Grilled Soft-Shell Crabs With Tartar Sauce

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1 cup mayonnaise

1 tablespoon drained capers, finely chopped

1 tablespoon snipped chives

1 tablespoon finely chopped cornichons

1 tablespoon minced pickled jalapeƱos

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon finely chopped tarragon

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon seafood seasoning, such as Old Bay

Salt and freshly ground pepper

Vegetable oil, for the grill

1 stick (4 ounces) unsalted butter

2 garlic cloves, minced

2 small shallots, minced

4 rolls, split

12 cleaned soft-shell crabs

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