Twice-Risen Cheese And Horseradish Souffles

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1 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour + flour for dusting

3/4 cup milk

Pinch of cayenne pepper

Pinch of grated nutmeg

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

Pinch of black pepper

1 tablespoon prepared horseradish (not creamed-style), see Note

1/4 cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

1/4 cup finely grated aged cheddar

2 large egg yolks

2 teaspoons minced chives (optional)

3 large egg whites

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