Genovese Cannelloni

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2 tablespoons butter

1 onion (8 oz.), peeled and chopped

2 pounds boned, skinned, fat-trimmed chicken thighs, rinsed and cut into 1-inch chunks

1/2 cup fat-skimmed chicken broth

8 ounces ricotta cheese (1 cup)

3/4 cup grated parmesan cheese

1 large egg

1/2 teaspoon fresh-grated or ground nutmeg

3/4 teaspoon salt

16 fresh egg roll wrappers (about 6-in. square)

Creamy tomato sauce

1 pound teleme cheese or 4 cups shredded fontina cheese (about 1 lb.; see notes)

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