Ramen With Ginger Roasted Squash And Crispy Pork Belly

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3 pounds pork baby back ribs* (cut apart between bones)

3 pounds chicken backs or wings

1 large carrot, chopped

1 large onion, chopped

6 large garlic cloves, crushed, divided

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1/2 ounce dried shiitake mushrooms

3 qts. reduced-sodium chicken broth, divided

1 1/3 pounds pork belly*, skin removed but thick layer of fat retained (ask a butcher to do this)

1 1/2 cups sake, divided

2 teaspoons kosher salt

2 tablespoons sugar

2 tablespoons soy sauce

5 quarter-size slices fresh ginger

1 lemongrass stalk, smashed with a mallet and cut into 3-in. pieces

1 piece kombu* (dried seaweed), about 3 by 8 in.

1/4 cup white (shiro) miso*

1 qt. (1 1/4 lbs.) peeled butternut squash pieces

2 tablespoons chopped pickled ginger*

2 tablespoons butter, cut into pieces

18 to 20 oz. fresh thin Asian wheat noodles (or use 13 oz. dried)

3 1/2 cups mung bean sprouts

1 qt. lightly packed watercress sprigs

3 green onions, cut into 2-in. slivers

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