New England Fish Chowder

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4 ounces meaty salt pork, rind removed and cut into 1/3-inch dice

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

3 medium onions (14 ounces), cut into 3/4-inch dice

6 to 8 sprigs fresh summer savory or thyme, leaves removed and chopped (1 tablespoon)

2 dried bay leaves

2 pounds Yukon Gold or other all-purpose potatoes, peeled and sliced 1/3- inch thick

5 cups Strong Fish Stock (see recipe), chicken stock or water (as a last resort)

Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

3 pounds skinless haddock or cod fillets, preferably over 1-inch thick, pinbones removed

1 1/2 cups heavy cream (or up to 2 cups if desired)

2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley (for garnish)

2 tablespoons minced fresh chives (for garnish)

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