Winter Crab Gumbo

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1 2 1/2- to 3-pound Dungeness crab, live or cooked

A scant 1/2 cup unbleached all- purpose white flour

1/2 cup unsalted butter

1 quart low-sodium chicken stock

1 cup diced white onion

1 cup finely diced fennel, tops saved

1/4 to 1/3 cup seeded, diced jalapeno pepper

3/4 cup peeled, finely diced parsnip

1/2 cup medium-dry sherry

3/4 cup cooked tomatillos (canned), drained, chopped and juices saved

Salt, cayenne and white pepper to taste

Pinch of sugar, if needed

2 teaspoons instant granulated dashi dissolved in 1 cup water or seafood stock

1 cup picked, cooked crab meat

Fennel oil, optional (see Note)

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