Soft Buttermilk Dinner Rolls

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4 teaspoons active dry yeast (do not use instant or quick-rising yeast)

1/4 teaspoon plus 1/3 cup sugar

1/4 cup warm water (105 to 110 degrees)

2 large eggs

1 cup low-fat or regular buttermilk

1/4 teaspoon baking soda

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature, cut into 1-tablespoon chunks; plus some softened butter for greasing the proofing bowl and muffin tins; plus about 3 tablespoons butter (optional), melted and cooled, for brushing the just-bake

4 cups flour, plus 1/3 cup or more, as needed for the work surface

1 teaspoon salt

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