Chickpea, Chorizo, And Chicken Stew With Mt. Tam Cheese

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Ingredients for 6 servings

1 pound dried chickpeas (2 1/2 cups), picked over

2 medium tomatoes

1 tablespoon black peppercorns

1 tablespoon cumin seeds

2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons olive oil

2 ounces slab bacon, rind discarded and bacon cut into 1/4-inch dice

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

5 garlic cloves, minced

2 tablespoons fresh jalapeño chiles (about 3), seeded and minced

2 large celery ribs, cut into 1/4-inch dice

1 red bell pepper, cut into 1/4-inch dice

1 fresh poblano chile, ribs and seeds discarded and chile cut into 1/4-inch dice

1 medium red onion, cut into 1/4-inch dice

1 large carrot, cut into 1/4-inch dice

1 small fennel bulb (sometimes called anise), stalks cut off and discarded and bulb cut into 1/4-inch dice

2 Turkish bay leaves or 1 California

1/2 cup sweet Spanish Sherry

10 cups chicken stock (page 314), or 7 cups low-sodium chicken broth plus 3 cups water

3/4 pound fresh chorizo* links (spiced Mexican pork sausage)

1 1/2 pound chicken thighs with skin and bones (about 4; preferably organic)

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

4 fresh rosemary sprigs

1 (8-ounce) wheel Cowgirl Creamery Mt. Tam**, or other soft mild triple-crème cow's-milk cheese such as Explorateur, at room temperature

Special equipment: an electric coffee/spice grinder

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