Three Chile-Potato Soup

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4 large plum tomatoes, halved lengthwise

1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon olive oil

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6 medium poblano chiles

6 medium fresh Anaheim chiles

3 medium onions, cut into 1/2-inch dice

2 jalapeƱo chiles, seeded and minced

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 cup amber beer, such as Dos Equis

2 large Idaho potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice

1 tablespoon fresh lime juice

2 tablespoons achiote paste, optional (see Note)

1 tablespoon sugar

Salt and freshly ground pepper

1 cup finely chopped fresh cilantro plus 1/4 cup whole leaves for garnish

1/2 cup crumbled tangy white cheese, such as queso fresco, ricotta salata or a dry goat cheese

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