Gratin De Moules

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8 ounces unsalted butter, preferably left overnight at room temperature (2 sticks)

2 to 3 medium cloves garlic, finely chopped (1 tablespoon)

Leaves from 1 small bunch flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped

Freshly squeezed juice from 1/4 lemon (1 teaspoon)

1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon salt, to taste

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

8 tablespoons chopped onions (from 1/4 large onion)

2 ribs celery, chopped

1 medium clove garlic, chopped

3 bunches thyme

4 pounds mussels, preferably Blue Bay (from Prince Edward Island), cleaned and beards removed; see NOTE

1 1/2 to 2 teaspoons salt, for the cooking liquid, plus more for sprinkling on the mussels

4 cups white wine

Coarse salt, for broiling

Cayenne pepper

1/2 cup plain dried bread crumbs

1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

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